The term fractal, denoting seemingly chaotic yet intricately comprised geometric shapes and patterns, was first coined by mathematician Benoit Mandelbroit in the 1970’s. Applicable to a variety of cultural arenas, textiles, cellular behaviors, musical sequences, nature and more, Fractyll magazine aims to do a series of feature pieces identifying specific allocations of this sublime artifact. With New York Fashion Week in the horizon, and Fractyll rethinking the significance of the ever looming and applicable fractal design, we hereby present to you 2 favorite fashion designers who generously implement fractals into their creations.
- Iris van Herpen
Dutch experimental and futuristic designer Iris van Herpen is renowned for her 3D printed haute couture designs and dark, fantastical esthetic. Particularly know for elevating sculptural constructions comprised of digitally synthesized designs “of inimitable folds, bends, and loops”, her ‘fractal folds’ have spearheaded a revolution of tech meets nature. Inspired by the interconnectedness of the unseen and seen, she exposes the rich yet fragile threads, layers and superimpositions of mycelium and undergrowth in her “Roots of Rebirth” collection. Referencing scientist Merlin Sheldrake who notes that ‘fungi is the ecological connective tissue’ and ‘the living seam by which much of the world is stitched into relation,’ Herpen’s avant-garde creations and assiduous attention to the dynamic flow and fusion of life, evolution and impact are mesmerizing, healing and enlivening.
Collaborating with numerous artists to manifest her artful gowns, or wearable sculptures, Herpen’s often addresses phenomena plaguing our world in fractalized form. For example, she’s erected one gown exclusively from ocean plastics; by laser cutting the printed fabric ‘parametrically into triangle tessellations’, she was able to generate a “translucent and fragile interconnectedness” with the skin. Note that she does regularly employ sustainable and recyclable materials. She has also modeled gowns after Anthony Howe’s ‘Omniverse” sculpture to touch on the manifold nature of ecology, and has compounded this theme of hypnotic entrancement in her legendary infinity dress; comprised of thousands of 0.8 mm. pieces of fabric cutouts, its fractalized sheen blurs the line between skin and textile.
2. Jhane Barnes
Then there is Jhane Barnes , who liberally carpets her menswear, footwear, and carpets + home décor designs in fractals. Employing cross-stitching or quilting methods to implement fractal imaging, fractals are processed by the computer, and then transposed unto the particular fabric form. She relishes designing fractal-woven fabrics so to ‘logically’ orchestrate her loom. Privileging ‘computer algorithms’ to traditional drawing techniques, she relies on predictable results:
“I don’t literally draw the design of the fabric; rather, I create the circumstances under which the design appears.”
Absorbed by the deterministic computational processes that proceed through ‘finite successive phases’, her menswear clothing loudly includes and honors the ’fractal.’ “Fractal Textured Layered Shirt” and “Fractal Jacquard button down” to title a few, she clearly recognizes the value, precision and prevalence of endlessly repeating geometrical gems. She is even an integral part of Ohio Math Works, which cultivates student’s real-world application of mathematics.
